Wat Kanlayanamit Woramahawihaan (วัดกัลยาณมิตรวรมหาวิหาร)
is the Thai name of a first class Buddhist temple of royal rank, which
translates as ‘Good Friend Temple’. It is located on the west bank of the Chao
Phraya River in Thonburi, at the mouth of the Bangkok Yai Canal and opposite of
the southern mouth of the Old City Moat Khlong Khoo Meuang. It was established
in 1825 AD by Chao PhrayaNikonbodin (นิกรบดินทร์), a wealthy Thai-Chinese
trader, also known as Toh (โต), who built the temple in honour of King Phra Nang
Klao, on land near the Santa Cruz Church, in the area of the Kuti Jihn (กุฎีจีน)
Community. King Rama III named the temple Kanlayanamit. Kanlayana is a prefix
meaning ‘beautiful’ or ‘good’, and Kanlayanamit could be translated as ‘true
friend’ or ‘good friend’. It derives from an inscription in the temple, which
reads: Watkanlayanamit khon sanit Kasat sang (วัดกัลยาณมิตรคนสนิทกษัตริย์สร้าง),
i.e. ‘Temple built by a true and close friend of the King’. When King Rama VI
later introduced the use of surnames for his subjects, the descendants of Chao
Phraya Toh took the family name Kanlayanamit after this temple built by their
ancestor. Among Toh's descendants is Saphrang Kanlayanamit (สพรั่ง กัลยาณมิตร),
a general who served for nearly three decades in the Army Cavalry Corps and who
was a key leader of the September 2006 coup d'état that ousted Prime Minister
Thaksin Shinawat. Whereas the ubosot of Wat Kanlayanamit houses a large Buddha
image seated in the pahng pah leh laai pose and has elaborate murals with scenes
from Buddhism and of Thai traditional life and folklore, the main wihaan (prayer
hall), which was built by King Rama III in order to help Chao Phraya Toh, houses
the principle image known by the names Phra Phutta Trai Rattananayok and
Luang Pho Toh, as well as by its Chinese name Sampokong (ซำปอกง). It is a circa
15.15 metre tall statue seated in the bhumisparsa (touching the earth) pose,
which the King had cast after the 19 metre tall gilded Buddha of Wat Phanan
Choeng in Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya, in May 1837. It was for a long time the
tallest seated Buddha image in the capital, but in mid-2020 this record was
broken by the giant 69 meter tall Phra Phutta Thammakaya Thep Mon Buddha image
of Wat Pahk Nahm Phasi Chareun, on which construction had started in 2017. In
front of the principal wihaan is a more recently built belfry (ho rakhang),
which houses the largest existing bell in Thailand. Adjacent to it is a lesser
wihaan that features a smaller Buddha image, also seated in the bhumisparsa
pose, and raised on a high pedestal. The inner walls of this hall are decorated
with intricate murals depicting scenes of the Ramakien, the Thai version of the
Ramayana.
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