The Chao Pho Kuan U Shrine in
Bangkok's Minburi District is located adjacent to the Chatuchak 2 Market and is
dedicated to Kuan U (กวนอู), which is the Thai-Chinese name for Guan Yu (关羽),
the Tiger General of Shu, who is also known by a variety of other names,
including Guan Gong, Kwan
Tai and Sangharama, lived between AD 160 and 219. He was the blood
brother of Liu Bei (刘备), the warlord under whom he served during the late
Eastern Han Dynasty, as well as of General Zhang Fei, with whom he
accompanied Liu Bei on most of his early exploits. Liu Bei was a benevolent
warlord in the late Eastern Han Dynasty, who founded the state of Shu Han in the
Three Kingdoms Period and became its first ruler. Kuan U was a fearsome fighter, yet
famous for his virtuousness and loyalty, a brave and faithful warrior in the
Romance of the Three Kingdoms. He is posthumously worshipped as
the deity who teaches righteousness and is traditionally portrayed as a warrior
with a long lush beard and a dark red face, or shades thereof. In ngiw, Chinese
opera, the colour red represents loyalty and righteousness. He is often depicted
holding the Green Dragon Crescent Blade, a type of traditional Chinese weapon,
called kuantao (关刀), i.e. the ‘Blade of Kuan’ and which consists of a heavy
blade on a long ̶ usually wooden ̶ pole. He is also frequently portrayed with
this long weapon in combat atop his horse known in Thai as Sek Tao (เซ็กเธาว์),
a name that derives from the pronunciation of its Chinese name Chi Tu (赤兔) in
the Chinese Southern Min dialect and which means ‘Red Hare’, and which
purportedly was the fastest horse in the Three Kingdoms at the time. Both this
horse and this traditional Chinese long weapon, that has been named after Kuan
U, are displayed at this shrine. Inside, behind the altar and shielded by glass
is a statue of Kuan U, stroking his beard with one hand and holding a book in
the other, a pose in which the General is known as Mei Ran Gong (美髯公), which
freely translates as ‘Lord with the Beautiful Beard’. Being the Tiger General of
Shu, he is here portrayed seated on throne on top of a tiger skin. Behind the
throne are gilded carvings of five-clawed dragon, a symbol of power and
sovereignty. To the left of Kuan U is warlord Chou Tsang (周仓), the General's
black-faced, fierce looking, loyal aide-de-camp, who is typically depicted
holding the General's kuandao battle blade, whilst to his right is Kuan Ping
(关平), the General's adapted son, who is portrayed with a pink face and holding a
present in the form of a gift box. To the left of the main altar are some
statues of Kuan Yin (觀音), the Chinese goddess of mercy, who in Thai is referred
to as Phra Mae Kwan Im (พระแม่กวนอิม), while in the background are golden
bas-reliefs of cranes, birds that symbolize longevity and are considered
messengers of wisdom. To the right of Kuan U's altar is a statue of the Chinese
wealth god Cai Shen (财神) holding some boat-shaped Chinese gold ingots, with in
the background a golden dragon surrounded by clouds. The colourful murals on the
gable, roof and eves of the shrine depict a variety of animals, trees and plants
and fruits, all with a highly symbolic meaning, such as goldfish, which in
Chinese are called yú (鱼), a word with the same sound as yú (逾) meaning ‘to
exceed’ and yú (余), meaning ‘surplus’. Due to this, their symbols are typical
Chinese good luck charms, especially goldfish, as those are called jīnyú (金鱼)
which sounds the same as jīnyú (金逾) or jīnyú (金余) and can be translated as
‘surplus of money’ or ‘gold in excess’. Other images include lotuses, called
lián (莲), a word that is homophonous with lián (連), that means ‘successively’
and thus a symbol for sequence or repetition; bamboo, a symbol for durability,
strength, flexibility and resilience, and hence another Chinese symbol of
longevity; fingered citrons, considered to be a fruit of abundance and since
this fragrant lemon-like citrus fruit consists of segmented, yet partly fused,
finger-like sections, was given the nickname Buddha's Hand; peony flowers, i.e.
the national flower of China, etc. The murals also have several famous and often
popular figures from Chinese and Taoist mythology, such as the Eight Immortals
depicted on a raft crossing the ocean from their home in the Taoist paradise to
worship Xi Wangmu (西王母), Queen Mother of the West and mother of the Jade
Emperor, after attaining their Enlightenment, with Ho Hsien-ku (何仙姑), the only
woman in the group following behind on the back of a Common Crane; several
paintings with scenes from the lives of Kuan U, Chou Tsang and Kuan Ping, one
depicted in the company of a Mahayana Buddhist monk; etc. The floor has a large
painting of cranes and a pine tree, both symbols of longevity, and the door
panels have Chinese door gods, i.e. two military generals, that are painted in
pair on either door of the double-door entrance, facing each other, as it is
considered bad luck to place the figures back-to-back. The circular front
windows have lattices in the form of the Chinese character foo (福), one of the
most popular Chinese characters meaning ‘blessing’, ‘good luck’ and ‘happiness’,
and which is here surrounded by four bats, who are in Chinese called similarly
fu (蝠) and as such are homophonous, i.e. sound the same as foo (福) and as such
are also symbols of good luck. The windows on the side have a decorative frame
iresembling the Chinese character sang-i (囍), which stands for ‘double
happiness’. Beside this, there are the typical dragon pillars, the dragon roof,
and a large round incense pot decorated with dragon figures, as well as a number
of Chinese lanterns. In front of a hall adjacent to the shrine is the national
flag of Thailand and the Theravada Buddhist flag of Thailand. Whereas the three
colours of the former symbolize the nation (red), the monarchy (blue) and
religion (white), the Thai Buddhist flag consists of a yellowish orangey field
with a reddish orange dhammachakka, i.e. the Buddhist ‘Wheel of Law’. Behind it
is a klot (กลด) umbrella under which are two white banners called thong kathin (ธงกฐิน),
one depicting a mermaid holding lotus flower, individually known as thong nang
matcha (ธงนางมัจฉา), and it symbolizes delusion or infatuation; the other of a
crocodile with lotus flowers in its mouth, known on its own as thong jorakae (ธงจระเข้),
and representing greed. These banners are placed at temples during the kathin
ceremony indicating their participation, in which pious laymen bring gifts and
robes to all the monks of a temple.
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